How To Train An Aggressive Cockatoo

Many people are afraid of an aggressive cockatoo. The fact their bites can cause serious damage deter many people from attempting to work with an upset bird. But aggressive cockatoos are full of untapped potential. They have the ability to love, but have never had the chance to truly show off their skills of affection. Many factors can cause an aggression in a cockatoo. Verbal or physical abuse (even something not directly injuring the bird- like shaking the cage or yelling at them) can cause them to become aggressive. This is a natural reaction for any animal. They see humans as a threat that makes them scared. So naturally they try to protect themselves by coming off as 'mean'. Other reasons for aggression include boredom (a lack of emotional, physical, or mental stimulation), loneliness (not enough contact with another cockatoo or human), or a lack of human interaction (they fear humans because they have not dealt with them before). But with a lot of patience, and a lot of love even the angriest cockatoo can become the most affectionate companion.

Photo credit to the California Parrot Rescue.

Click their name to learn more about this great rescue!

Be patient: When attempting to hand tame an aggressive cockatoo, you need to realize that time truly does heal all wounds. And patience is key in turning their behavior around. Let your bird find love at it's own pace. Do not get frustrated or give up. All your cockatoo really needs is lots of love, positive attention, and time to realize you are the place it's all coming from.

Stay calm: When approaching an upset cockatoo, it's natural to be jumpy. When they hiss or attempt to bite, our instinct is to flinch away. But those sudden movements only make your bird more nervous. So before even approaching your bird, take a minute and calm down. Breathe deep, close your eyes a little, relax your shoulders. When you approach the bird calmly, they will subconsciously become calmer as well. Although they will still be anxious, your calm demeanor will be contagious. So really work to calm yourself before approaching an aggressive cockatoo.

Talk softly: In the past many aggressive and 'noisy' birds were most likely yelled at. A common remark made to loud and angry birds is "Shut up" and many owners mistake yelling at a bird for scolding them- when in all reality it merely makes them want to sqwuak louder. Separate yourself from their negative past human interaction by keeping a very soft voice. Make clicking sounds, whisper, talk lightly, or raise the tone of your voice slightly are all good ways of positively verbally interacting with your bird.

Move slowly: Once again, past owners probably made the mistake of making quick, sudden, and sometimes aggressive movements towards their cockatoo. This would obviously make any cockatoo very frightened of sudden jerks or body movements. So it's important to be aware of the movement you make around an aggressive cockatoo. Always move very slowly. Even a sneeze or a quick scratch of an itch could scare your bird. So be conscious of your every movement and always attempt to move very slowly. This will give your bird time to react to you without feeling the need to protect themselves.

Sit next to the cage: Take a few hours each day to simply sit next to the cage. Talk to your bird in a calm voice. Let them get used to your smell, your voice, and your natural movements. The more aware they are of you and your habits, the less likely they are to be startled or scared by you. After a while try to press your hand against the cage bars. Allow them to come over and sniff, lightly bite, and check out your hand. It will get them accustomed to being close to and interacting with you. But they'll feel safe on the inside of the cage bars.

Set your hand near the door with a treat: Once your bird doesn't seem so standoffish as you sit beside them, open the cage door just a little and set your hand inside with a treat in it. Leave it there. Be still and talk quietly. Your bird may not come to you the first time- that's fine. Just be patient. Continue to do this day after day, so your bird begins to learn that your hand will always have a reward associated with it (a snack).

Let the bird approach you: As your bird gets more accustomed to the presence of your hand in their cage, they may try to approach it. Be still and make no sudden movements. As the bird takes the treat, release it from your hand, and let it walk away. Slowly remove your hand from the cage and grab another treat- and repeat the process again.

Make no sudden movements: Stay very still as your bird begins to take treats from you. Continue to let your bird to take the treats. As your bird gets used to this, approach your bird with the treat (again making no sharp or fast movements). If they run away, retreat and try again later. But if they accept, let them take the treat and then move your hand away. Continue this process until your bird is familiar with your hand coming close. Once you do that, as your bird gets used to you coming close you can begin to try and pet them while they eat. Earning their trust will take a lot of time and patience, but is worth it in the end.

Reward positive interactions with praise and snacks: If your bird allows you to approach them, pet them or comes to you willingly- reward them. Give them a treat for positive interactions and ignore then when they act inappropriately. If they bite or hiss then simply leave them alone. Do not try to bribe them with a snack- that will just show them their bad behavior is rewarded. Only reward good behavior.

Work to train a new trick every week: As your bird's aggression begins to subside, start working on training your bird new tricks. There are a variety of tricks you can work to train your bird. By keeping their mind challenged and entertained you give them a good outlet for their energy- which will prevent anger and aggression.

Deter improper behavior by verbal-training the bird: As your bird begins to learn the meaning of different commands, begin to work on training them "No". When they act inappropriately tell them 'No'. Give them a few seconds to see if they repeat the behavior. If they stop- reward them with a treat. If they continue, ignore them and leave them alone. By teaching your bird the meaning of 'No' you can create an easy way for both you and your bird to understand what is inappropriate and when that act needs to end (aka- as soon as you tell them 'No').

How To Tame A Timid Cockatoo

Each cockatoo has its own personality. Some are outgoing, while others are very shy. Many times shy cockatoos have developed their timid behavior because of negative contact with humans. They are afraid, saddened, and nervous about people. Usually these cockatoos came from pet stores or unfit homes where they were mistreated, teased, or even physically and verbally abused. It's important to remember when working with a shy cockatoo that their past experiences with humans may not have been positive. Be very patient, as time can truly heal all wounds. Getting frustrated and giving up easily is not going to help your bird or you. Go into the training with a calm and 'take all the time you need' attitude. With that kind of mindset, you'll have a happy loving affectionate cockatoo sooner than you expected.

Photo credit to the California Parrot Rescue.

Click their name to learn more about this great rescue!

Stay Calm: When approaching a shy cockatoo stay very calm. Cockatoos can pick up on anxiousness, and your nervousness will make the cockatoo negatively excited as well. So prior to approaching your feathered child, take a deep breath, relax your muscles, and calm yourself.

Talk Softly: Many shy cockatoos react very timidly to peoples voices. If they came from a busy pet store, loud voices may intimidate them. Prior owners may have yelled at them or raised their voice at the bird. To separate yourself from other 'not-so-nice' people, lower your voice to slightly above a whisper. This calm, soft tone will help soothe the bird and make them more open to contact with you.

Move Slowly: We cannot stress enough how important it is to move slowly when approaching a timid cockatoo. Make no sudden movements. Even something as insignificant as a sneeze can startle a bird. Be aware of everything you do. The cockatoo may have been hit, had it's cage shaken, or had things thrown at it in the past. So sudden movements could cause them understandable terror. That's why it's very important to walk slow, raise your hands nonchalantly, and be cautious of your movements.

Rest hand on cage bars: When beginning to work with a timid cockatoo, start by simply sitting beside the cage. Do not attempt to reach your hand into the cage, and certainly do not stick your hand right up to the bird. Instead, give your cockatoo time to get to know you. Let them get accustomed to your company, your scent, and your voice. Rest your hand on the cage bars next to a perch and let them approach you. Stay still and do not move your hand towards them. After a few minutes withdraw your hand and just sit for a while. Then place your hand against the bars again and let them visit again- if they want to. The cage bars will offer a sense of security, because the cockatoo will realize that you cannot reach them.

Feed snacks through cage bars: After your cockatoo begins to show contentment with your company you can begin to feed snacks from your hand. You will know your bird is ready for this step by many key signals. If your cockatoo prunes itself (cleans its feathers with its beak), sleeps, makes happy sounds (cheerful sqwuaking, singing, kissing noises), or plays with its toys while you are beside the cage- it shows that it's comfortable with you. Also, if your cockatoo willingly approaches your hand when you place it on the bars, then it shows it trusts you. Now you can offer snacks through the cage bars. Millet and small fruit bits work well for fitting between cage bars. Let your bird come to you. Hold very still and release the treat as they take it from your hand.

Rest hand in cage: As your cockatoo begins to willingly approach you for treats, you can move onto the next step. Now this step is a very big one, and must be done so with caution. You can now, at this point, begin to rest your hand in your cockatoo's cage. Keep in mind that the cage is your bird's territory- not yours. You need to work around your bird and ensure they are not uncomfortable. We recommend, if possible, using a small door (like an opening used for food dishes. Take your hand, and very slowly move it into the cage. Your cockatoo may run away or hiss. When they hiss, stop moving your hand and stay still until they subside. Once your hand is fully inside the cage, rest it on the side. To begin your cockatoo will most likely not approach you. That is okay. Just be patient, keep your hand still, and let them get used to the idea of being near your hand. When they come to it, do not move it. Let them inspect it. If they try to bite, slowly move your hand away. All other times, let them poke, prod, and get used to your hand.

Rest hand on perch: Once your bird begins to show signs of comfort with your hand in the cage (pruning, happy sqwuaking, etc) you may move your hand a bit further into the cage. This should happen, at minimum, a week after you first placed your hand in the cage. It may take longer with some birds, and that is perfectly fine. Now, when you enter your hand into the cage, you can slowly move it to a perch. Do not place it on a perch near your bird. Rather, place it as far away from your bird as possible- so they still have space to get away if they feel the need to do so. Leave your hand gripping the perch and let your bird approach and go away as they please. Your goal is not to touch the bird, but rather to let them know your hand is not a threat. Keep your hand still and let your cockatoo get used to the close proximity.

Handfeed a snack: When your bird begins to approach your hand without hesitation while in the cage, you can start luring them over with a snack. At this point your bird should not be running away any time you enter your hand into the cage. Instead they should simply be patiently waiting for your hand to take a seat on a perch. Now you can hold a snack in your hand. Millet is always a huge hit. Once again, pick a perch that is distanced from your cockatoo. Hold the snack upright into the air and let them approach you. As they eat the millet you can hold onto the stem. If you are feeding a small piece of fruit or vegetable you can let go as they grip it to take it away.

Bring the snack to your bird: Soon your bird will begin to come to your hand each time you enter the cage, simply to see if there is a snack. They may even show excitement and pace back and forth in anticipation for you to come over. At this point, you can begin to approach your cockatoo instead of waiting for them to come to you. When you bring a snack into the cage, slowly move your hand towards your bird. If they run away, leave your hand in place for them to approach you. But if they approach you cautiously, extend your hand and offer them a treat. After a while, they will no longer fear your hand approaching, but rather come to you as you come to them.

Pet your bird: The last step to hand taming your cockatoo is to actually have physical interaction with your bird. This step often takes the longest, but is well worth the patience. When your bird comes to take the snack, give them the snack and then slowly move your hand to their head, back, or chest and pet them very softly for 5 to 10 seconds. At first your bird will most likely run away. This is okay. Let them run, keep your hand still, and then bring another treat and try again. Move your hand slowly, and when your bird runs or hisses, stop movement entirely. Let your bird calm down, get another treat, and then slowly attempt to pet your bird again. At first, only pet your cockatoo for short periods of time. As they get more comfortable you can pet them for more extended periods of time. And over a few weeks, your cockatoo will get more and more accustomed to contact with you. Keep showing them love and affection, and over time they will begin to return the favor.

How To Keep Your Cockatoo Safe In A Natural Disaster

Unfortunately, natural disasters are inevitable. Floods, hurricanes, earthquakes, and tornadoes are a regular occurrence all around the world. It’s important to keep yourself safe in these situations, but many people don’t think about the safety of their pets until it’s too late. There are a few ways you can help yourself prepare for a disaster with your pet, and get through that disaster safely.



Photo credit to the RoseBerry Bird Rescue.
Click their name to learn more about this great rescue!

Have a smaller travel cage easily accessible: It’s vital with a large bird that you have a travel cage within your home. There is no possible way to move a large bird cage quickly and efficiently in the case of an emergency. Having an appropriately sized travel cage could very well save your bird’s life. Travel bird cages are sold online and at many pet stores. Small dog and cat sized travel cages can also work. If they do not have space for a perch inside, consider lining the inside with a towel to prevent your bird from slipping around. Cages should also be equipped with two dishes securely attached to the side for food and water.

Have 2 weeks worth of food available: During natural disasters we often prepare by buying bottled water (make sure you have enough for your pet too!). But we often don’t consider what our pets will need. If you are preparing for a storm like a hurricane or flood, make sure you have at least 2 weeks of food available for your bird.

Move bird to cage and bring to centralized part of the home: If you are preparing to weather through a natural disaster like a flood, hurricane, or strong storm- move your bird to a centralized part of the home. You will want to keep your pet in an area where you can easily supervise them and get to them in case of an emergency.

Keep bird away from windows and doors: During any natural disaster you should make an effort to immediately move your bird’s cage away from any windows or doors leading outside. Strong winds and debris can break open glass or blow open doors. Both of these hazards can have fatal effect if a bird is left close enough to them. Strong drafts and the noise of a loud storm can also cause more unnecessary stress on your bird.

Cover three sides of the cage if your bird seems nervous: Most animals will become very nervous during a natural disaster. The loud sounds and general anxiety of others in the household can be very unnerving. If your bird seems especially anxious, you can help them feel more secure by covering three sides of their cage (leaving one side open so you can still supervise and calm them). By covering three sides of the cage you help your bird feel more hidden and protected from the storm. Bird cage covers like this one work great for this purpose.

Avoid free-flight during bad and loud weather: Although time outside of the cage is highly encouraged, during a bad storm it’s actually best your bird stays in a place where they are sure to be safe. If you need to quickly access your bird in case of an evacuation- the easiest way to do that will be to retrieve them from the cage. They are also less likely to get scared and take flight and possibly hurt themselves during a startling loud noise from the storm.

Play other natural noise during strong winds: Sometimes ‘blocking out’ the noise outside can help soothe your bird. If the howling winds and booming thunder seem to be causing stress on your feathered friend, try playing some other ‘normal’ noise. A television, radio, or music that your bird is accustomed to can help take away their attention from the sounds of the weather.

Do not leave cage unattended: If possible, do not leave your bird unattended during the storm. Supervising them and ensuring that they are not getting startled, are eating, drinking, and are not shaking will help you ensure that they are getting through the storm without too many nerves.

Do not keep cage near standing water during a flood: In the case of a flood, move your bird’s cage to the highest possible part of the home. If you do not have a second story, consider putting your bird in their travel cage and moving them to the top of a table or bookcase. Do not leave your bird in a cage in standing water; as the water is very unsanitary and you run the risk of your bird becoming very ill. Keeping them dry and warm is vital during a flood.

If you evacuate: If you do evacuate your home (whether it’s before, during, or after the storm), try to be prepared. Have at least 5 to 6 days of food packed with you. If you can also try to place on familiar perch in your bird’s travel cage as well as one of their favorite toys. Amidst all of the stress, these familiar items can help your bird feel like they are a bit more at ‘home’ in the chaos.

Contact local rescues in your area if you need a temporary foster: We understand that sometimes bringing your beloved feathered friend with you just is not possible. If you do not think you can evacuate your pet or supply them an adequately safe place to reside during the storm; consider contacting a local shelter. During natural disasters many local shelters take in temporary fosters and supply them with a safe, well-maintained temporary home until the storm has passed.